Spend 4 minutes to stay in shape year-round for ice climbing
There's nothing worse than starting ice climbing season feeling like you're totally gripped. Your technique comes back easily enough, but the strength for hanging on your ice tools is only gained through just that — hanging on your ice tools. That's why it's so important to keep those tools handy in the summer and fall months, and to put them to use a time or two per week. I like training with the Tabata workout method, as advocated by legendary ice climber Will Gadd.
Tabata method
The Tabata method is super simple to do. It consists of hanging from your ice tools for 20 seconds, followed by a 10-second rest. Repeat this 8 times (for a total of a 4-minute workout) and you're good to go. Trust me, you're gonna feel pumped. And if you don't, you can always (slowly) increase the hang time or number of sets, or Tabatas, you do.
If you have a hangboard, I like to switch up the edges I can from just to keep things interesting. But you can hang from just about anything that supports your weight: doorframes, exposed beams, tree branches, playground sets, you name it.
Try to make it feel as real as possible
- If you can, hang on an actual pair of ice tools — nothing beats training with the tools you're going to gripping during ice season. Furnace Industries makes drytooling climbing heads that you can swap onto your ice tool shaft.
- A good backup option is to use a pair of wooden tools that can be your dedicated indoor training set. Again, Furnace Industries probably makes the best ones, but you can find less expensive tools on Etsy.
- Wear your gloves. You don't usually climb ice barehanded, right? Having that layer between your hand and the grip makes a difference.
- Make sure you're engaging your shoulders during your hang. It should feel like you would on the ice, which means at least some tension through your arm and shoulder muscles.
Tabata Timer
If you don't want to keep count in your head, there are plenty of apps out there to help you keep track of the time and reps. Or, if you use an iPhone, you can download this free shortcut that I made and use. It announces when to start and stop each rep, and which one you're on. At the end of the set, it helps you log the workout to Apple Health. My favorite part is that it doesn't take over what's already playing on your phone, so you can keep listening to music or a podcast while you hang.
More training
I can highly recommend Will Gadd's videos. His training set are short and to-the-point. Will's one of the best ice and mixed climbers in the world, and practices what he preaches. Here's his training playlist:
And Furnace Industries has some great resources on their site for targeted workouts to build a strong foundation, core, and endurance.
I'll be digging further into these resources as I excitedly wait out the last few weeks for early ice to come in, and then I'll be supplementing my outdoor climbing with these exercises to make the most of the season.